A Summer day in Japan

Ryogoku hanabi no zu/KOBAYASHI Kiyochika（1847-1915）

Once again, the hot summer has arrived. In Japan, summer begins with the end of the rainy season. Along with the rising temperatures, the humidity makes the air feel heavy and muggy. Compared with spring or autumn, summer is not usually considered the most comfortable season to visit Japan. Yet for us who live here, we have always lived side by side with this humid heat. Over the centuries, we have developed our own ways—our wisdom, perhaps—to endure and even enjoy it.

One such way is through what we call fūbutsushi (風物詩). This word refers to things that poetically symbolize a season or a place—scenes, customs, or events that immediately evoke the feeling of that time of year. Because Japan’s four seasons are so distinct, these fūbutsushi are deeply woven into our daily lives and culture.

Let me share a few summer fūbutsushi from my own memories.

• Sōmen noodles: chilled, thin white noodles often topped with refreshing condiments such as shiso leaves or myoga ginger. They cool the body and spirit on a hot day. There is also nagashi-sōmen, where noodles flow down a halved bamboo pipe with running water, and diners catch them with chopsticks—an elegant and playful summer pastime. Some restaurants still serve it.

• Fireworks festivals: People dress in summer yukata and gather outdoors to watch brilliant fireworks light up the night sky. In those moments, you yourself feel as though you have become part of the fūbutsushi of summer.

• Cicadas at dusk: The chorus of countless cicadas creates a sound like rainfall, called semi-shigure (a “cicada rain”). You can hear it in parks and forests across Japan. Even in Tokyo, places such as Shinjuku Gyoen or Meiji Jingu offer the chance to experience this unique summer soundscape.

• Summer festivals (Natsu Matsuri): These festivals are often tied to Shinto shrine rituals or Buddhist Obon traditions, and each region has its own style. They are usually held on hot summer nights, full of music, color, and a strong sense of community.

Obon itself is a Buddhist custom for honoring ancestors’ spirits. During this period, it is believed that ancestral spirits return to visit their families. People welcome them with rituals, offerings, and family gatherings. Common practices include cleaning and decorating graves, placing flowers, incense, and food on household altars, and lighting mukaebi (welcoming fires). At the end of Obon, spirits are sent off with floating lanterns (tōrō nagashi) or okuribi bonfires. In many places, people also dance Bon Odori outdoors.

Even if you have no ancestors in Japan, it is possible to incorporate remembrance into your journey—for example, by visiting Hiroshima or Nagasaki, where prayers for peace and the memory of the departed are deeply felt. For us Japanese, such gestures of respect are profoundly moving.

Since festivals and Bon dances vary widely by region, one way to enjoy summer in Japan is to travel with local festival calendars in mind. Of course, northern regions like cool Hokkaido are ideal in summer, but visiting Sado Island in Niigata or the San’in region along the Sea of Japan is also rewarding. The Japan Sea coast is relatively cooler, and—as its name suggests—you can truly feel the presence of the sea.

Another way to cope with the heat is to plan your outings early in the morning or in the evening, and spend midday hours indoors—perhaps exploring Japan’s many art museums. In the end, there are many strategies for getting through a Japanese summer. But above all, don’t forget to enjoy its fūbutsushi—those symbols of the season that make it uniquely memorable.

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